Day 12:Sunday 9 October - Istanbul

The morning was spent wandering down to the Grand Bazaar, which fortunately was
closed! It meant that we discovered some other delightful nooks and courtyards instead. There is so much to see and experience in Istanbul! Lunch was a quick snack from a roadside kiosk in the lines of a doner kebab, spicy and scrumptious.

Bidding Rob and Champs a sad farewell – their company was much appreciated andenjoyed – the rest of us joined a bus group of other tourists visiting the 30-roomed Beylerbeyi Palace on the Asian side of the Bosphorus.

Built by sultan Abdul Aziz between 1861 and 1865 the sumptuous palace was used for entertaining dignitaries and royalty.


At the time of its manufacture, the giant crystalchandelier from England in the main hall upstairs was the largest in the world and is now the 3rd largest. Ostriches and tigers were kept in the zoo on the palace grounds which lie ubeneath the Bosphorus Bridge, the 9th longest suspension bridge in the world. The 3rd last sultan was kept as a prisoner in an anteroom of the palace for 6 years and died there, almost forgotten, after being deposed in 1909.

A pleasant photo and refreshment stop on a nearby hill with magnificent views
followed. Charmaine, Rob, my mom and I chose to be dropped off at the Spice Market(Egyptian Market), which was bustling with Sunday afternoon visitors, but still enchanting. Spices, teas, fresh vegetables, pickles, honeys, sweets, deserts....a mouthwatering feast for all the senses.

A slow meander back to the hotel took us almost 5 hours as we stopped to enjoy a snack and beer in a colourful alley full of cushioned exotic spaces to relax and smoke a hubbly (or in our case watch others smoke the hubbly!). Before getting too settled and loathe to move, we ambled up to the pool between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque where the windless but chilly 15 degree C evening granted us the superb reflections we had hoped for. A tasty bowl of soup at a pavement restaurant was another salubrious stop before returning to the hotel, somewhat sad that our last evening in Istanbul was over.

Day 2 Istanbul: Thursday 30 September

After breakfast we were introduced to Kotay, our young and endearing guide for the day. Kotay, or Koko for short, is a guide after my own heart, giving us plenty of time to look around as well as being well-spoken, caring, informative and fun to be with.


Our first visit was to the Hagia Sofia, a vast church built in the 6th century AD by the Emperor Justinian as part of his attempts to restore the might of the Roman Emperor. It was inaugurated in 537. Justinian is reported to have exclaimed: “ Oh Solomon, I have outdone you.” One cannot but be awed by its sheer size and architecture- and by the fact that this was achieved more that 1400 years ago. Converted into a mosque after the Conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by Mehmet the Conqueror, the Hagia Sophia contains mosaics featuring Christ with Byzantine emperors and their wives as well as great medallions inscribed with the names of Allah, Mohammed and the caliphs Ali and Abu Bakr in gilt Arabic letters. The immense dome of the Hagia Sophia reaches a height of 56m. The upper galleries are not to be missed as this is where the most impressive mosaics are to be found. Ataturk converted the Hagia Sophia into a museum in 1935 – until then it had served as a mosque.


Across the park in which the reflections of the two great buildings may be seen in the central pond, a spectacular scene on a windless night when they are both fully lit, lies the Blue Mosque built between 1606 and 1616 by the Sultan Ahmet I to rival the Hagia Sophia in size and beauty. Once again the sheer vastness of its interior space takes one's breath away. Thousands of blue Iznic tiles decorate the walls creating a feeling of calm and tranquillity. Four enormous “elephant feet' pillars support the beautifully decorated domes.

Lunch at a restaurant below the Blue Mosque provided welcome and tasty sustenance before we went back to the Hippodrome, once the stadium holding up to 100 000 people built by Emperor Septillion Severs in the 3rd Century AD and enlarged by Emperor Constantine. Three ancient monuments remain. The Egyptian obelisk was carved in Egypt in 1500 BC and brought by boat by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius. It is believed to be about one third its original height and stands on a base built in the 4th Century AD. The Serpentine Column next to it is believed to date from 479 BC and was shipped to Constantinople from Delphi. It is said that a drunken Polish nobleman knocked off the three heads of the serpents in the 18th Century, one of which may be seen in the Archaeological Museum. Another source stated that the heads were stolen during the Fourth Crusade, along with many other statues and artefacts. The Column of Constantine is of uncertain date and is believed to have been once covered in bronze.
At the end of the Hippodrome is Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain a gift to the Sultan Abdul Hamit ll commemorating the Kaiser's visit in 1901.


The rest of the afternoon was spent at the fabulous Topkapi Palace where we joined the crowds viewing the jewel-encrusted weapons, utensils and ornaments of fairytale magnificence, the holy relics which include the mantle once worn by the Prophet Mohammed presided over by holy men chanting the Koran night and day, little vessels containing hairs of the Prophet's beard, an impression of his footprint and a tooth. Also amongst the relics are the jewel encrusted arm and skull of St John. Construction of the palace commissioned by Mehmet the Conqueror was started in 1453 and over the centuries it has been enlarged, being finally abandoned for palaces along the Bosphorous in 19th Century. At times it housed 12 000 residents and guests.

Surprisingly we still had energy to tackle the Grand Bazaar after Topkapi where all were left to wonder and wander at will. No-one got lost! The evening was free to do as one wished – most choosing to have a a quiet time at the hotel.

Reflections from Charmaine:

Istanbul is an immensely fascinating 24/7 city teeming with people speaking 100 different tongues. Ultra-modernity, efficiency and hand-drawn carts, cars and pedestrians all merge and somehow grow in organised chaos!
Divas Hotel squeezed into a tiny alley opposite a Moslem burial yard frequented by calico cats and pyjama-striped kittens with huge ears. They catch their own food in summer and the locals feed them through winter.
Our meals were “splendirious”, delicious and perfectly right for 99% of us. Rich colours and textures tempting adventurous pallets. The roadside mealie and roasted chestnuts, the “puffed up' freshly roasted breads and olives, the pool reflections of the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque on a perfectly calm final evening in the city. So much to see, so little time. Another visit will be an absolute must-do!