Bubbly Zeynep picked us up from the vast and modern Antalya Otogar - bus depot - and dropped us off at the Mediterra Art Hotel in the old Roman-Ottoman part of the city, Kaleici. Along the way she pointed out landmarks and the golden statues on the circles advertising the forthcoming (International?) film festival. There was a bit of a mix up with bookings and all but the “thriples” - the three of us sharing a room, a name coined by Azzu- were accommodated in a hotel around the corner. The others were grateful to move out of these very small rooms and into baronial quarters in the Mediterra for the next two nights – the fancy suites making up for the discomfort of the first night!
Accommodation sorted we ambled down to the picturesque Roman harbour and on up to the Fluted Minaret dating from the 13th century and presently undergoing renovation. The clock tower beside it was built in 1244 and marked the upper limit of the Old Town. Antalya is charming – a bustling little city where ancient and modern are juxtaposed. Following the tramway we re-entered the Old Town via Hadrian's Gate, built in honour of Emperor Hadrian's visit in Ad 130 and until the 1950s buried within a Selcuk city wall. How many other ancient structures are hidden in a similar manner? Below the perspex walkway lies the ancient Roman pathway between the arches, several feet lower than the level of the street and deeply rutted by chariot wheels.
Antalya's history dates back to the Palaeolithic period, artefacts from this era having been found in the Karain Cave in the precincts of the city. The city itself was founded by Attalus ll of Pergamum in the 1st century BC, but like many of Turkey's cities, has been through the hands of the Romans, Byzantines, Seljuk Turks and the Ottomans. After WW1 Italy was given the city by the Allies when the Ottoman Empire was carved up, but Ataturk's armies took it back before 1921.
Night or day, the streets of the Old Town are vibrant, a feast for the senses. Through gateways one glimpses abundantly green gardens – havens for conversing over a cup of apple tea or just enjoying the peace. Newly renovated grand old houses stand side by side with those whose bulging upper rooms are propped up with poles and protective fencing. And all over there are shops selling carpets, curios, clothing and other Turkish Delights.
In the early afternoon we caught the tram to the archaeological museum where we gazed in wonderment at the great marble statues, many of which were brought in from excavations at Perge in the 1970s, as well as from Aspendos. The collection includes representations of 16 gods. The displays of artefacts dating from the Stone Age to more recent eras gave us deeper insight into the layers upon layers of history of the land that is modern day Turkey. Two hours in the museum was too much for some of us, not enough for others!
Our reservation at the hamam around the corner was for 5.30 -7pm. After sweating it out in a side room for more than an hour, wondering why we were being ignored while later arrivals were getting the full treatment we decided to pack it in and leave and ask for our money to be refunded. The staff were most apologetic and we realised that there must have been a lack of communication between the manager and the ladies working in the women's section. A pity, as we had all so looked forward to the experience.
Dinner alongside the pool at the hotel was a scrumptious 3-course affair after which, satisfyingly tired and replete we retired!
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